Nestled in the heart of Darlinghurst amid the buzz and the energy of the bustling streets, a charming white terrace stands tall —a space that has observed the transformation of Darlinghurst, a suburb celebrated for its lively ambiance and diverse community. 

This very terrace, that over recent months has had its own second coming, now has a new purpose as home of ‘The Waratah’—a two-storey neighbourhood bar paying homage to the old and new, tradition and trendiness. It’s a salient achievement for co-owners and directors of Pollen Hospitality, Cynthia Litster and Evan Stroeve, who take the time to talk us through their distinct vision for their inaugural venue. “It’s a love letter to all that makes Australia unique.”

 

By paying tribute to local growers and independent producers, The Waratah remains faithful to its native roots, presenting the Australian landscape in an accessible manner, with aspirations to nurture conversation, connection and culinary excellence. So much so that it wants to be a “home away from home; a venue that is casual, welcoming, warm and cozy, but also unexpected.” And home is indeed where the heart is, particularly for Evan, with his mother’s botanical sketches serving as the driving inspiration behind the venue’s concept. It’s one that omnipresent throughout the space, most notably on the ground-floor ceiling, with a hand-painted mural by Australian artist Sarah McCloskey as a tribute to his mother’s art.

 

It’s a concept that interior design studio, Farago Han, were tasked with bringing to life further through a considered design narrative. Tinged with nostalgia, it serves as an ode to connection with land and plant life, with a uniquely contemporary twist. The bar embraces a “choose your own adventure” approach. Downstairs, a lively public bar radiates the constant energy and movement synonymous with Australian hospitality—a space for spontaneous gatherings, post-work unwinding, and quick bites. Walk-ins only, with a casual yet vibrant vibe. Upstairs, an elegant terrace bar with a rooftop and wrap-around veranda offers a refined atmosphere for savouring a meal.

 

 

For the Pollen team, the menu aims to reflect its curious, diverse and layered approach to its physical space, translating it into something tangible, and hopefully delicious. With First Nations growers and NSW farmers heroed, it’s a commitment that extends beyond ingredients, as Cynthia emphasises. “It’s about recognising and respecting the deep connection these communities have with the land. It’s a celebration of heritage, a commitment to sustainability, and a way to offer our guests an authentic taste of the incredible bounty that our land has to offer.” 

 

The cocktail list and menu are therefore aiming to be not only culinary offerings, but crafted narratives that speak to time and place, past and present. These stories, in fact, echo the very essence of Australian hospitality—deep connections with growers, pride in native produce, the heartbeat of pub culture, and a sense of community and connection. They’re interlaced into every aspect of the Waratah, and one worth visiting, if we do say so ourselves.