Sydney draws creative cookies and bright sparks from all over Australia and the world. It’s a city that isn’t afraid to reinvent itself. And it’s no surprise then, that it’s home to some truly inspired innovators: the kind of people who twist tradition with imagination and a little left field thinking to create magic – whether in a sourdough loaf or a scented candle. From the florist, baker to the candlestick-maker, we meet some of Sydney’s brave new artisans. 

Sun, sea, sand and… sourdough: some of the many s-words Sydney is synonymous with. But it hasn’t always been so. Inspired by classic Parisian bakeries, Australian chef Phillip Searle opened Infinity Bakery in Darlinghurst in 1997 and was the first person to bring sourdough bread to Sydney. It was quickly embraced – and devoured – by the community and for a long time, if you were kind to the bakers, you could buy bread any time of the day or night. (A change in baking schedules sadly put an end to that – but you can still convince the baker to give you a freshly baked croissant right up until it closes at 10pm.)

Since then, the bakery has stayed true to its origins but has also evolved, grown and innovated. William and Sophie Petersen took over the brand in 2008 and expanded it to include outposts in Manly and Paddington. Handcrafted sourdough loaves are still at its heart, while classic white loaves, French-style sweet breads and sandwiches, pies, brownies, cookies and cakes are the juicy cherries on top.

To keep ahead of the curve, the team “spend a lot of time reading books, visiting new bakeries, trade shows and the like”, William tells us. He’s also, “always making sure that I keep my hands in the dough each week, to make sure I haven’t lost the touch. That’s an important part of the process!”

And while it’s important for him to maintain integrity and traditions, there’s always room to innovate and improve. “It’s also about making a better product each and every day. Improving the art.” In a cheeky nod to Darlinghurst’s unconventional community, Infinity’s pastry is described as ‘handmade in the authentic French style with a contemporary Darlo twist’.

“Darlo is made up of an interesting mix!” William explains. “And it often looks rough around the edges but it’s full of good things once you dive in. Well that’s what we like about our pastries, they look simple from the outside, sometimes oddly shaped, but they always surprise both in flavour and depth.”

And for William – alongside making the best dough in town – community is what it’s all about. “This is a business that produces passion on daily basis,” he says. “It’s unavoidable getting swept up in the hospitality business because it offers daily feedback, human interaction, teaches you humility and drives you toward a greater goal. I love the hands on nature of the business and interaction it creates with the community, you really feel a part of something.”

Read: 

The new artisans part 1: Doctor Lisa Cooper

The new artisans part 2: Elise Pioch Blazac